» » » » The 3 Best Adventures in Colombia: Part 3 – Visiting the San Bernardo Islands

The 3 Best Adventures in Colombia: Part 3 – Visiting the San Bernardo Islands

san bernardo islands colombia (2) copyLR

Visiting the San Bernardo Islands is the final part in my series about the 3 best adventures in beautiful and diverse Colombia.

 

Be sure to check out my previous posts about hiking epic Valle de Cocora and camping Parque Tayrona

 

Visiting the San Bernardo Islands

I can hear you all saying, "I've never heard of the San Bernardo Islands"

Exactly! This little-known island chain feels like it's a million miles from anywhere. If you want to have a truly off-the-beaten path Caribbean island get away - this is the perfect way to do it. You'll feel like you discovered a piece of paradise that no one knew existed.

Where are the San Bernardo Islands:

The San Bernardo Islands are a small island chain in the Caribbean, 80 kilometers south of Cartagena, accessible only be boat.

Very few international tourists venture south of Cartagena on the coast, so there is little tourism in this area (especially outside of Colombian high season December-January and holidays).



Booking.com

Why Visit the San Bernardo Islands:

Each island is different and super interesting. There are 10 islands in the San Bernardo archipelago, but the three that receive the most tourism are Mucura, Santa Cruz, and Tintipan.

san bernardo islands boat ride

Mucura

Mucura is the most touristed island. It has perfect white sand and still turquoise waters. The main swimming area is really incredible with some of the calmest water I’ve ever seen. You can swim out very far and still be only be waist high in the water. There are also a couple restaurants, hotels, and amenities here

 

Santa Cruz del Islote

Santa Cruz del Islote is interesting because it's the most densely populated island on earth. It is only ⅛ a kilometer squared (or just over 2 acres) but contains 1,200 people, 90 houses, 2 stores, a restaurant, and a school. Each house is touching the next, the whole island is concrete, and it appears as if almost every square inch is used. There are little walkways and alleyways to walk between buildings, and sometimes you feel as if you are walking through someone’s home. Locals were friendly and happy to sell us some paletas (popsicles) from their home so we could cool off on the hot day.

santa cruz del islote san bernardo islands
Window in Santa Cruz, San Bernardo Islands, Colombia
Door in Santa Cruz, San Bernardo Islands, Colombia

Tintipan

Tintipan was my favorite of the three. It’s incredibly gorgeous and very, very quiet. We only saw a handful of other tourists there during our stop. There are several mangrove swamps you will pass through with exotic birds, and the beach is picture perfect. We only saw one restaurant here (though there may be others in other parts of the island or within hotels/hostels). We all ordered the fresh fish for lunch and it was delicious.

Man on boat at Tintipan Island, San Bernardo Islands, Colombia
Fresh fish on Tintipan, San Bernardo Islands, Colombia
Boat in Tintipan, San Bernardo Islands, Colombia
Coastline of Tintipan, San Bernardo Islands, Colombia

The coves next to the island were super calm, clear and great for a swim. The snorkeling was also fantastic there. With the absence of people, there were lots of beautiful and colorful sea creatures to see as we swam around.

How to Get to the San Bernardo Islands:

You can head to Rincon del Mar (see below for full breakdown on how to get there) for a few days and take a day trip to the islands. The cost of the day trip tour is very reasonable at 40,000COP pesos per person (note: price was in 2016 and may have changed).

Or you can take a boat from Cartagena for 2 hours and stay on one of the islands. 

It’s also possible to take the bus from Cartagena to Tolu, and then take a boat from there. Tolu is farther down the coast then Rincon del Mar, and a little more developed for tourism.

Where to Stay in the San Bernardo Islands:

Lodging costs are mostly on the higher end on the San Bernardo Islands. Here are a few choices below.

Where to Stay in Mucura:

Dahlandia - Booking.com score of 8.4/10, Average price $82/USD night double private room. All inclusive. Simple and rustic rooms right next to the beach.

Mucura Club Hotel Booking.com score of 7.9/10. Average price $106/USD night double private room. All inclusive. Comfortable rooms, beach club area, pool with slide, on the beach.

Hotel Punta Faro - Booking.com score 9.4/10, Average price $243/USD night for a double private room. Very comfortable, more upscale rooms, on the beach.

Where to Stay in Tintipan:

Sal Si Puedes - Booking.com score of 9.4/10. Average price $173/USD night double private room. Cute place with great design/decor, comfortable. Right on the water.

Casa en el Agua - This hostel is not actually ON the island of Tintipan, but is rather it's own little mini island. It's quite literally a hostel in the Caribbean sea, surrounded by water. It seems to be a bit of a party hostel catering to a young crowd, so may not be for everyone, but it does look stunning. They can arrange boat transportation directly from Cartagena. Average price for a dorm bed is $29/USD, $30/USD for a Hammock, and $80/USD for a private double room.

Isla Roots Hostel - New listing so no reviews yet. Average price $66/USD night for a private double room with shared bathroom. Breakfast included.

Where to Stay in Isla Palma

Isla Palma is another island in in the San Bernardo Islands chain. I didn't have a chance to visit, but there are a couple hotel and hostel options here.

Hostal Isla Palma - Booking.com score of 8.8/10. Average price $55/USD for a private double room with shared bathroom. Rustic but comfortable rooms, air conditioning.

Decameron Isla Palma - Booking.com score 8.2/10. Average price $245/USD night for a private double room with a/c. All inclusive. Upscale private rooms and common areas.



Booking.com

Be Prepared:

The islands are quite a way out into the sea. You must take the boat early to get there, as the waves get bigger later in the day. There are even many days when it isn’t possible to make the trip because the waves are too rough. If you are doing the trip from Rincon del Mar, try to arrange the trip asap so you have a better chance of finding a calm day to go.

Also be prepared if you are prone to sea-sickness. It can be a bumpy ride!

While our tour was great, and I was happy we did it, our boat did break down 3 times on the way to out to the islands. This is a very poor area, and it shows in the condition of the boats. It never felt unsafe and we were helped out by the next boat that came along. Just be prepared and try to go with the flow.

There are no ATMs in on the islands or the town of Rincon del Mar, so be sure to bring all your money with you from Cartagena. Cash only is accepted here!

Bring any specialty food or snacks with you. Food options are limited on the islands and in Rincon del Mar.

Bring sunscreen and insect repellent with you. It will be difficult or impossible to find it on the islands or in Rincon.

Bring a good book, a deck of cards, or something to pass the time while you sway in a hammock.

Wifi is limited to nonexistent here. It's a place to go to relax and disconnect.

While Visiting the San Bernardo Islands:

Visit Rincon del Mar:

This was a really special and impulsive side trip for us. We decided to come to this tiny fishing village when we saw a poster in Mamallena hostel Cartagena for a new “sister” hostel that just opened in Rincon del Mar. From what we could tell, there was very little to no tourism there yet, and it was mostly “untouched”.

This was all very true. The Mamallena hostel in Rincon del Mar is one of the few accommodation options in this small fishing village. There were one or two other guesthouses, but we never saw any other tourists there even though it was high season.

It’s a tiny village with one beachfront road. It has a very Caribbean vibe and the locals are all of Afro-Caribbean descent.

rincon del mar colombia
house in Rincon del Mar, Colombia
sign in Rincon del Mar, Colombia
Wall of signs in Rincon del Mar, Colombia

To Get To Rincon Del Mar:

Head to the bus station in Cartagena. It’s a bit of a distance from the city center - 45 minutes or more. It’s possible to take a city bus, but we opted to take a cab since we had our big backpacks and wanted to save time. The taxi ride was 20,000COP.

Next find a bus heading to San Onofre. The ride will be about 2 hours and should cost around 25,000COP per person. Buses are air-conditioned and comfortable.

Once out at the San Onofre stop, you’ll find motorcycle taxis. Negotiate a fare to Rincon del Mar - it should cost around 10,000COP per person. You will literally get on the back of their bike, hold on to their shoulders and ride 30 minutes down dirt roads to the coast. If you’re lucky, you’ll get a helmet. They nonchalantly throw your luggage in front of them and balance it between themselves and the handlebars as they drive down the bumpy roads. Getting there is half the adventure!

Update 2017: Hostel Mamallena Cartagena will soon be launching a shuttle service from Cartagena to Rincon del Mar. Prices are projected to be close to public transit prices. Contact Mamallena for more info: [email protected] or [email protected] .

entering rincon del mar by motorcycle, colombia

entering rincon del mar

This was one place I have felt truly out of my comfort zone. Locals are not used to tourists so it feels very different from other tourist destinations. It was amazing to see a little village operating as it would have decades ago, not catering to the whims of travelers. However, once you make an effort with locals, they’re friendly to you as well. The kids run around all day, ask you your name curiously, and play games on the beach.

Update 2017: Note - my trip was in early 2016. Tourism has started to increase in Rincon del Mar since then, so it's not unusual to see other travelers here. However, it's still considered an "undiscovered beach town."

kids on beach in Rincon del Mar, Colombia

Where to Stay in Rincon del Mar:

I highly recommend Mamallena hostel Rincon del Mar. The rooms are very rustic, but comfortable (privates even have air conditioning!) and very affordable at 80,000COP for a private single or double or 25,000-30,000COP for a dorm bed.

The hostel is directly on the beach, so you are just steps to the sea. The common area on the beach has lots of comfy hammocks, picnic tables, and mats to lounge on. You’ll find yourself passing full days here, reading, dozing, and swimming.

There is a shared kitchen and some very basic wifi.

Update 2017: They have expanded to include the building next door, so the beach/lounge area is considerably larger and the kitchen has been updated. They have also opened a beach bar, run by the manager.

 

What to Do in Rincon del Mar:

There is almost nothing to do there besides lay in a hammock and swim in the sea. So it’s very relaxing and truly “tranquilo”. Take a book, make some friends, and enjoy a cold beer as you stare at the sea.

sunset in Rincon del Mar, Colombia

What to Eat in Rincon del Mar:

There are no true restaurants in town, but there is a family next door that cooks breakfast, lunch, and dinner for guests upon request. They offer fresh fish of the day, shrimp, or chicken. Meals are simple, but fresh.

The hostel also has a shared kitchen if you prefer to prepare your own food. Just be warned there are no big grocery stores in town, only a couple small tiendas with basics. I recommend to bring any specialty food items in with you (such as granola, peanut butter, or nuts). You can buy things such as eggs, rice, basic veggies, and pasta here in town.

Also look out for the daily fruit vendor and sweets vendor. They both walk the beach daily selling whatever is fresh. The fruit vendor typically has pineapple, bananas, mangos, and watermelon. The sweets woman has whatever she made that day - usually yuca bread (delicious!), candied papaya, and sesame bars.

There is also a woman across the street, who makes fresh squeezed juices and sells them out of her house. Ask the Mamallena manager where to find her.

Update 2017: The hostel has also opened up a beach bar.

beach in Rincon del Mar, Colombia

 

If you are looking for a true Colombian Caribbean experience, the San Bernardo Islands and Rincon del Mar shouldn’t be missed!



Booking.com

Pin it for Later!

san bernardo islands colombia pinterest
san bernardo islands colombia pinterest 2

19 Responses

  1. MELODY
    | Reply

    Great site and beautiful photos! My interest is piqued!

    • Susan Ripley
      | Reply

      Thanks Melody! Glad to hear it!

  2. Ryan Christie
    | Reply

    very useful information, thanks for the tips!!

    • Susan Ripley
      | Reply

      So glad it was helpful!

  3. Lyssie
    | Reply

    I love this post and want that true, local Colombian trip you talked about! I’m headed to Cartagena in May from a Saturday afternoon to Wednesday morning. I’d love to visit Rincon del Mar and the islands, but do you think it’s feasible if we want to stay at least one night in Cartagena too? I’m willing to have long days with little sleep to fit it all in but not sure how the transportation schedule might fit…

    • Susan Ripley
      | Reply

      Hi Lyssie!

      I’m so excited for your trip! I definitely think you can fit in Rincon del Mar and the islands if you don’t mind cramming it in. If you get in early enough on Saturday, you could make the journey to San Onofre by bus (2 hours) and then hop on a motorcycle taxi for the last 30 minutes. I would only try to make it same day though if you think you can make it before dark. I’ve used Andestransit.com before to look at bus schedules. To be honest, I don’t know how accurate it is, but it might give you an idea.

      You could spend Sat, Sun, Mon night in Rincon del Mar, and make the day trip tour to the islands.That should be plenty of time to get a feel for the area. I’d recommend contacting Mamallena hostel if you have any other questions about transit or to book at their hostel in Rincon: http://hostelmamallenarincondelmar.com/index.php/how-to-find-us/

      Then you could head back early Tuesday morning, and spend the whole day and night in Cartagena.

      Hope you have an amazing time! Be sure to let me know how it goes!

  4. ivo
    | Reply

    Hi!

    Very interesting topic. We´ll stay soon in Rincon for four days. I wonder how to find day trips to islands or for snorkeling from Rincon del Mar?

    • Susan Ripley
      | Reply

      Hi Ivo,

      Nice! I’m sure you will have a great time. Any hotel or hostel should be able to arrange day trips to the islands. I stayed at Mamallena in Rincon del Mar and they arranged very affordable trips.

      For snorkeling, I think the best bet is to snorkel around the San Bernardo Islands. On our day trip we snorkeled off two islands and saw some great colorful fish.

      Have a great trip and let us know how it went!

      Susan

  5. Stuart
    | Reply

    Hi, this is Stuart from Hostel Mamallena. I’m really glad you liked Rincon and have written about it, its a special town and we are excited to be seeing the town grow and the people improve their standard of living with the tourism that we are bringing to town.

    I hope you dont mind my comments but I thought I would post a couple of updates. Arturo has moved on and Lilia is now in Rincon providing the same excellent customer service. Shes also just opened up a small, casual bar on the beach. The hostel has also expanded to the house next door which has really increased the amount of hammocks and the social areas, and the kitchen is a lot better.

    We’ll soon be starting a regular shuttle bus from Cartagena to Rincon, which will be priced very closely with going by public transport but be a lot easier. You can either contact us at [email protected] or [email protected] for more details and reservations.

    Rincon has changed slightly, its now not uncommon to see foreigners in town! But its still Colombias best undiscovered little beach town, so you should get here while you can

    • Susan Ripley
      | Reply

      Hi Stuart!

      Thanks for letting us know all the updates! It’s only been just over a year since I’ve been there, but sounds like a lot has changed! Glad to hear they have been positive changes.

      I’ll be updating this post soon so it can be as current as possible. And hopefully I can get back to Rincon soon so I can see the changes for myself! I’ll be in Cartagena again early next year, so will have to stop by and say hi. 🙂

  6. Raphael
    | Reply

    Hello Susan,

    sounds interesting, we have 12 days for the carribean coast, starting on 10.01. in capurgana/sapzurro. as actually some people tell me that the situation in this time at capurgana could be not so good, as the sea is very rought and the town of capurgana/sapzurro crouded, so i am searching for some interesting options on the way northeast the coast. Would you recommend to look for a hostel on the islands or better staying on the coast and just a day trip to the islands? Should we avoid any other places like cartagena/tayrona/palomina between 10.01. and 20.01 because of the high season? Maybe only one day in cartagena for transit and walking thorugh the city and afterwards the beaches oon or near tayrona? Thanks for your help

    • Susan Ripley
      | Reply

      Hi Raphael! I’m excited for your trip – there is so much to do on the Caribbean coast of Colombia.

      I can’t chime in on Capurgana or Sapzurro since I’ve never been to that area. I will say that January is high season, being especially busy in the beginning of the month (closer to Christmas). I’d definitely book any accommodation ahead of time, as many places will be booked up.

      I have never stayed overnight on the San Bernardo islands but in my research I have heard of 1 or 2 budget options, most of which don’t have an online presence. Doing a quick google search now, I found a hostel (I believe a new one) called Isla Roots. It’s on my favorite of the islands – Tintipan. I haven’t stayed there, but it does look reasonable.

      If you decide not to do that, I recommend staying in Rincon and making a day trip to the islands. Rincon is super chill and a great place to take in some local culture.

      We spent 2 days in Cartagena and felt satisfied with that amount of time. We were able to do a lot in those days.

      Tayrona is amazing and I would recommend it. It may be a bit busy, so going later in your time frame would give you a better chance. We visited in January, but just a little bit later than your dates, almost at the end of the month. But if you go on a weekday and leave very early in the morning, I think you’ll be okay.

      Hope that helps! Let me know if you have more questions, and also how it goes!

  7. Jenn and Ed Coleman
    | Reply

    This looks truly amazing. I love all the blue and how close you are to the water. The thought of taking a boat ride away from all the hubbub to your private island is really exciting. The though of the boat breaking down three times is really exciting too, but no in a good way. I would love to do this adventure.

  8. Jen
    | Reply

    The islands look so colorful! Seems like a whole different side to Colombia that I’ve yet to discover, must add these to my list!

  9. Juliann
    | Reply

    Wow! These islands look like escapes from the world! I’ve never heard of these islands and love the idea of being away from it all. Islands with no restaurants? I can’t even imagine. But there is something a little scary about feeling that off-the-beaten track, too. I’d definitely have to be with the right person to venture out into a getaway like these islands offer.

  10. Ivy
    | Reply

    Because it’s not very touristy and because the locals aren’t used to foreigners, will I be able to get around okay not knowing any Spanish? I’m surprised at the cost of accommodation on these islands! Is that the usual price in Colombia?

    • Susan Ripley
      | Reply

      Yep, it’s definitely a good idea to have at least some very basic Spanish. It’s not necessarily common for locals to speak English. But knowing a handful of relevant words should do the trick. And yes you’re right, the prices on these islands are higher than the rest of Colombia. This seems to be a “high end” destination for Colombians.

  11. Cat
    | Reply

    It is unbelievable how clear the water is!! I love escaping to islands like this where you just enjoy the island time and not have to deal with too many tourists. Hopefully it stays that way!!

  12. Allison Wong
    | Reply

    To be honest I don’t know much about San Bernardo Islands until I read your post! So informative and those amazing looking water definitely make me wanna go there too!

Leave a Reply